On our way home tomorrow

And so the sun sets on our epic adventure... tomorrow morning we set off at 8am on our epic flight home.  Nothing like an hour's drive to the airport to be there three hours before your flight when you're travelling with children.  But Sophia and Cassie have a pretty good idea of how this flying business works now, so we are hopeful!  We leave at midday London time and do the long 11 hour stretch then, have an hour in Singapore and then head for Perth, arriving around 2.15pm Perth time on Saturday.

We enjoyed a lovely final day in London.  We took a walk along a small part of Hampstead Heath (which is about as big as Kings Park), admiring the forget-me-nots and lovely tall old trees. Then while I had a meeting in London, Manny and co set off for Camden Markets - one of the most famous and interesting places in London. Here you can stroll stalls of all shapes and sizes selling everything imaginable.  You'll probably see punks, lots of tattoos and piercings, doc marten boots, as well as antiques, souvineers, pubs and fish and chip shops - a real mix.  We all took the underground together (an experience in itself) and they got off way before me.   I carried on to the Strand and then had one of the best macaroons on the planet (salted caramel) and a cup of tea with my Tourism WA colleague, Elen, in Covent Garden.  No matter what you desire, you can find a shop that specialises in it in London!  I then boarded the tube, worrying that I would be a little late.  Quite amazingly, as we stopped in Camden, who should board my very carriage, but Manny and co!  How serendipitous - with so many people and trains going every few minutes, what were the chances of that??  They'd had a marvellous time exploring and finished it off with fish and chips.

In the afternoon, Manny, Cassie and I went into Hampstead, stopping at all the quaint and expensive shops and admiring all the posh cars. It's one of the most moneyed parts of London - and every 2nd car seems to be a mercedes or porche - clearly the economic downturn is not affecting everyone. We got to Carluccio's restaurant and as I hadn't eaten, we decided to have a quick bite.. goodness, what a meal... I had home made penne with zuchini, fried spinach balls, chili and parmesan, while Manny just had to have the vongole.  I also ordered the most divine pasta chips - home made pasta infused with rosemary and then deep fried and sprinkled with rock salt.  There were 2 salads - one of goats cheese, sun dried tomatoes, roasted pine nuts, balsamic and lettuce, while Manny enjoyed rocket, parmesan and balsamic.  The taste was sublime - and one of the best meals I've ever had!  Afterwards we couldn't resist a scoop of homemade gelato infused with vanilla bean, an expresso coffee and a lemoncello liqueur (and poured a little over the icecream).  Wow - a true gastronomic delight.  Carluccio is featured in a new TV show with Genaro (Jamie Oliver's mentor) called Two Greedy Italians on BBC - they have a cook book out as well which we bought to savour the recipes.

This afternoon a long walk was in order so I pushed Sophia through the back laneways of Hampstead - so beautiful and so rich!!

Tomorrow we depart - I am looking forward to getting home, and looking back over the truly amazing holiday we've experienced - a real epic adventure. Can't wait to see you all again

Sue xx

London

The trip is drawing to a close - and it does feel like we've been gone for ages now - I guess with three parts to the holiday and so many different activities.  My first international training seminar went very well, despite last minute changes to venues etc and the need to race around London on Monday morning, collecting workbooks from printers and getting organised in a foreign city.  The participants were great and they felt quite sure I would be back for the next big speaking event in September.

Our B&B is in Hampstead, just a short walk from Hampstead Heath, famous for famous people living nearby (Gwenyth Paltrow to name just one) and for the film Notting Hill starring Julie Roberts being filmed here.  It's a well to do suburb with a village feel which makes a nice change.  Manny and co spent a day wandering the shops which they very much enjoyed.  Last night we had a wonderful dinner in the B&B restaurant - actually, it's more of a restaurant with a B&B attached, than a B&B.  The food is French/Italian and the owners are Italian/Cypriot.  Between us we had delicious deep fried white bait, salmon, calves liver, calamari, and fish - everyone left feeling rather full and very happy.

Today was the big tour of London with our Bartercard driver Ron.  We set off in search of jellied eel for Bapou but had no luck.  We went to Petty Coat Lane markets in the east end which is renowned for the dish, but we were there too early.  We then had a coffee at St Catherine's dock before returning to the B&B to drop off Yia Yia, Bapou (who weren't keen on the extended tour) and Sophia who was due for a sleep.  Then Manny, Cassie and I did a tour of the main sights - Queen's Life Guard horses, Buckingham Palace (for that royal kiss and close encounter with a bizarre arnie lookalike), Big Ben, Westminster Abbey, the London eye and Harrods. 

The London Eye (giant ferris wheel) was amazing - not at all scary with amazing 360 views over London.

At Harrods, Manny fulfilled his goal of champagne and Oysters at the food court, and we bought some goodies to take home.  Incredible place now - I don't remember the food court being like that 15 years ago!!

Tomorrow is the fine day of our big adventure.  We'll spend it nearby - possibly a walk on the heath, a trip to Camden markets (not so far away) and maybe even lunch at Carluccio's restaurant which is a 10 min walk away.  Carluccio is an Italian TV chef we've long admired and just happened upon his restaurant today so you just never know.  The question is - can we fit in one more big amazing meal before we leave??  The no-carb diet will be in full swing when we return that is for sure! We depart from the hotel at 8am on Friday morning - the start of our epic return journey - and look forward to seeing you all very soon xxxx

check out our photos

I've just gone back and added in lots of pics in the last few posts so be sure to scroll back and have a look xx

Final Days in Greece

As Manny posted, we have enjoyed a wonderful few days with Desi and Tim back in Hersonisos at Sunrise Apartments.  The highlight and most memorable aspect would have to be the absurd amount of raki on offer and that we consumed.  The village had transformed in the week we were away - we returned to find it officially open for the tourist season with so many more shops and restaraunts scouting for business.  Obviously there had been some serious raki making done over the winter because we were plied with the stuff.  Not only in shot glasses at every shop we ventured into, but by the plastic bottle load wherever we spent money.  We did our utmost to drink as much as possible before we left, but I'm sure there will be some more left behind.

We took a drive to the ancient ruins of Knossos with Desi and Tim who were particularly keen to go.  It was just us and about 300 other tourists there when we arrived!  Interesting though - dating back 6,000 years.  We also took another drive to Elounda, the town from which we catch a boat to Spinalonga.  We enjoyed a lovely lunch and a leisurely drive back through the mountains. 

Desi, Manny, Bapou and I spent much of the next day in Agios Nikolaus, and then made a return trip to Kritsa so Desi could see where her grandfather was born (she was last there with her mum, Aunty Kath in 1979 when it was just a dirt track). Of course we stopped in at Agiros apartments, much to the delight of the owner.  We'd bought half a kilo of fresh halva (there is truly nothing like the fresh stuff - amazing contrast to what you buy in packets at the supermarket) at a deli in Agios Nikolaus, so we happily brought it along to enjoy with Agiros for morning tea.  She made a pot of delicious mountain tea and also shared some bauxumaria and some sweet nut cake she had just made.  Oh... delicious!  It was another one of those special moments - feeling truly at home there, and loving showing the town and our friend, to Desi.

Back at Koutoulourfari, Yianni and Maria had cooked up a storm for a late lunch - our final meal together before Desi, Tim and I departed last night.  Meatballs, potatoes cooked in tomatoes, green and greek salads, dakos (dried local bread with chopped tomatoes, feta and oil), and carbonara (not so greek but very moorish) all washed down with local red wine and of course some raki to finish.  

Lunch finished around 5pm and once the children were in bed, Desi, Tim, Manny and I decided to venture out for something light to eat - just a bowl of soup we said... of course it wasn't to be.  After we had a quick drink at a new bar, we were enticed to Emannuels Taverna with its original oven from the house that was once there.  We were showed the trays of slow roasted lamb and fresh fish, and eyed the spit with chickens and pork.  Of course, we ordered a meal of each to share, which arrived on platters rather than plates.  We walked slowly home, foolishly deciding to stop at the Sunrise Bar for more drinks, finally home by midnight, stuffed as a goog and knowing there would be a headache in the morning...

And so here I am back in London, pining for Greece and its fresh food, its friendly people and our family.  Doing my first international 2 day training event in London tomorrow - wish me luck!

Sue x

Desi and Tim in Crete

This week has gone very quickly. After Kritsa we headed back to our cousins place Sunrise Apartments in Koutouloufari. We arrive here Tuesday and picked up Desi and Tim who had come down from the Uk to spend 5 days in Crete with us. We have had so much fun eating and exploring Crete.....and the Raki !!! Oh the Raki....It was special time for Bapou and Desi as Desi is Bapous Goddaughter. Friday we had lunch with the family and just now Saturday evening Desi and Tim have left along with Sue back to London. The holiday is nearly over.......I miss them and Sue already and they have only just left. !!!! Rather than try and write about here are a few videos and photos

Walking the streets of koutouloufari

Some amazing meals. Love it !!

Family Dinner

                                         Toasting the family

Our final days in Kritsa – for now...

The Christopher Robin song ‘...thank you God for a lovely day...’ swirls around my mind as I type my final entry from Kritsa.

Manny is holed up at Argiros Apartments with Yia Yia, Emmanual Papadoulis (another one) and his wife Fotini.. but that is another story. Cassie is sound asleep and I want to mark this special moment in time.

We have enjoyed some wonderful times in the last few days. Saturday, Manny, Cassie and I took a drive to Elounda to catch a boat to the island of Spinalonga.  For anyone who’s read The Island, it is the basis for the story (thanks Tricia!).  It was where those inflicted with leprosy were exiled.  The uniqueness was that the people of the nearby town of Plaka went to great lengths to help those on the island create a home. By the time the island closed in the 1960s it had a school, 3 churches, families (who had got married and had children on the island), and many professional people working in the local economy.  It’s a fascinating story and a lovely day trip.  The drive to Elounda is just stunning – winding along the mountainside with the ocean below.   It’s always wonderful to be on the water in Greece so I enjoyed our boat ride to the island.  We walked around, and then stumbled across a small church service in one of the churches which is still active – arrived just in time for the Christos Anesti song!  Afterwards we enjoyed lunch at a taverna in Plaka – grilled octopus, calamari, tarama and salad.

Sunday, we went to Church (entering under the glare of what felt like a thousand old Greek women, all wearing black and pursing their lips in distaste – even those who have been so friendly on the street).  Whatever (as you say in Oz).. Bapou’s father was christened in that church.  Bapou and Yia Yia took communion, and we all received a blessing, as well as our fill of holy water and some locally baked pastries to boot.  Afterwards we took a walk through the streets to find Bapou’s father’s house (indeed the place where he was born) and marvel at our continued good fortune. It seems at every turn we are guided further along the path to finding the Papadoulis heritage – quite serendipitously. 

On our way back to our spiti to get changed, we chanced upon four chickens roasting on a spit – where else but the black smith’s workshop – all in readiness for dinner that night at the cafeteria next door.  Wonderful aromas wafted down the laneway and we bemoaned the fact that we hadn’t ordered ahead (as is the guidelines for eating chicken at the cafeteria).  Not to worry, we had better options in mind – goat in the next village of Kroustas.  We set off up the mountain, the incredible vista of Kritsa (which from afar resembles  a scorpion in layout) below us.  It was a wild and windy day and we were hoping for a return to the taverna we visited three years before but it wasn’t to be.  They had hosted an engagement party the night before and so were not opening for Sunday lunch. Not to worry, Bapou’s Greek language skills guided us to another taverna to be found next to the church which also served goat, so we took our places and waited expectantly.  Boiled goat might not sound like cuisine to die for, but it is!  So tender and sweet, flavoured with the wild herbs that the goats themselves eat and seeping deep into the flesh.  Wedding rise (a type of pilaf or risotto with goat’s cheese), a salad and some horta capped off one of the most delicious meals we’ve enjoyed.  With full bellies we wandered back along the one and only street, stopping to compliment a man on his blonde-haired son.  He returned the compliment by offering to show us a Byzantine church which was off the main road.  We wandered the back streets of Kroustas, amazed by the complete lack of cars and motorbikes – and incredible peacefulness.  We saw the church, gazed at more incredible views and walked back to town, all the while guided by this kind man and his son. Before we left he ran to his house to bring us a gift of bauxumaria (a sweet dried bread) that his mother had made.  Such kindness from a stranger!

Again tonight we were treated to incredible hospitality, this time from Emmanuel Papadoulis and his wife.  When Bapou and Yia Yia last visited 24 years ago they met Emmanuel,  There is a story about a bottle of raki, the early hours of the morning, and Yia Yia stuck in the bathroom in her petticoat but I’m not 100% sure of the details so I won’t relay it... Anyway Yia Yia and Bapou found their daughter in a nearby shop the other day and a reunion of sorts took place.  Emmanuel then arrived this evening at the apartments with a full tin of olive oil made from his farm, and wanted to join us for our last evening.  Firstly, we ate our final meal at the apartments – three delicious plates of local fare which included black eyed beans, sautéed egg plant with tomatoes and capsicum, and another of green beans and artichokes – so simple but so delicious.  Outside, we joined Emmanuel and Fotini, who produced a plastic bag of vegetables from their garden and the mountainside.  They proceeded to cut the artichoke heart into small pieces and season it with oil and vinegar. This was followed by a plate of radicio (a wild green which Emmanuel hiked to the mountain plateau to harvest himself using only his pocket knife) seasoned with oil and salt, great numbers of fava beans (which Cassie now loves) and his own wild olives (much smaller than the standard kalamata but so tasty). Before long Argiros joined, bringing with her deep fried zucchini flowers stuffed with rice, as well as our now favoured fava dip.  Our second dinner was just as delicious and just as healthy – all washed down with copious amounts of raki.  Manny will be there for some time I think, as will Yia Yia.  Bapou was feeling unwell (a mix of fortified wine last night and goats cheese on the rice yesterday) and retired early to bed.  There is a strong sense of obligation that they must stay (I got away with Cassie needing to go to bed) but also, how can you resist such incredible and generous hospitality??

And so tomorrow we leave Kritsa, with a slightly heavy heart, but a glow of hope that we will return again.  We won’t be buying a house this time, but it is a real possibility in future.  Don’t worry, Perth will always be home, but we dream of spending a month or two a year here, and we would love for Cassiana and Sophia to learn the language with a term at the local school every now and then.  Already Sophia has swapped ‘no’ for its Greek equivalent ‘ochi’ and happily waves ‘yasoo’ to every passing person. 

We shall miss our spiti, and the friendly locals who inhabit the laneway - the chubby old ladies with their wiry moustakis and micri beards (an electrolysis salon would do well here) and magnificently muscled calves thanks to much mountain climbing, the owner of the cafeteria who whiles away her days peeling fava beans, a reed-thin whisp of a man who doesn’t say much but slowly wanders the laneway with his hands in his pockets, a kiwi born violin teacher who’s lived here for 10 years or so with her husband, three young English girls whose family moved here on a whim and now speak perfect Greek after three years, and a gang of swarthy local girls aged around 12 who try desperately to flirt with the local boys. 

We look forward tomorrow to returning to Yianni and Sunrise apartments for our final days in Greece.  Tomorrow, Desi and Tim arrive, and so we begin a brand new chapter of our epic adventure.

Special Moments

Bringing my parents to Greece at Easter has always been a goal of mine. Watching them celebrate with their family at Easter was a huge blessing. 

Yesterday we went to the village beyond Kritsa called Kristos. It is a beautiful village not yet spoilt by tourism and since it is on top of the mountain, easy to get around. We went there to have a special meal which the village is famous for. It is a boiled goat which doesn’t sound appetising but tastes sensational.

After we finished the meal, we walked out of the village and as the wind blew strongly on top of the mountain I hugged my father and for some unknown reason I started to cry.. until I was crying uncontrollably. I was happy....very happy but still crying. I didn’t want this moment this special time to end. I can see how much Mum and Dad have been enjoying the trip, the churches, the family, Pascha, the friends the food the raki everything. This trip has been a celebration of their 50 years marriage, a celebration of everything Greek, a celebration of family and a celebration of Life!!!. Food Family is love and love is life and life as they say is everything. It was also a way of me thanking my parents for everything they have given me during their life. Their love and support often during testing times has never wavered.

When Dad keeps saying, we will never be back in Greece OR I will never have an Easter again in Greece suddenly I realise that the moment of enjoying goat on top of a mountain with my father and mother might never ever happen again. Suddenly everything about life is put into perspective.

Yesterday Dad saw where his father was born - he looked at me and I knew he was happy to be here and happy that Sue and I made it happen.

Special moments, special memories...............

Cutting up the Easter lamb !!

It seemed at Easter time that we had food everywhere. There was a lamb on the spit. A side barbeque for other meat. Food coming out of the kitchen. The cousins know how to celebrate Easter. Yiayia and Barpou just loved it. ( okay we loved it as well!!)

Chicken on the Spit !!

As I was walking back to the house I smelt something delicious. That is nothing unusal in Kritsa as there seems to be something cooking in the village all the time. Anyway as i was walking pass what the locals call the "blacksmith" shop I saw a spit cooking with 4 chickens. Big fat chickens. The man was cooking for one of the local tavernas that only the locals go to. Unfortunately you had to pre order so we didnt get the opportunity to taste the end result. For those who want to know the smoke was coming from the olive wood he was burning !. Oh I love Crete !!

Long and Glorious Days In Kritsa

We are loving our time in Kritsa - we have fallen into a routine of joining Yia Yia and Bapou just after breakfast, then a trip into Agios Nikolaus for shopping and coffee, back to Kritsa for afternoon sleeps and dinner at a local taverna.

Bapou has solved many riddles about his family, by stopping to speak to locals and asking questions.  He and Yia Yia found Maria Papadoulis, a lady they met when they were last here in 1987. They produced a photo of her taken in her 20s - she looked shocked until she realised who they were. Then we were invited inside her house to look at old photos - a lovely warm woman - and it made Yia Yia's day to have found her.

We've enjoyed delicious meals here - never anything fancy but always wholesome and delicious. Lots of horta (wild greens) cooked with olive oil and lemon, boiled eggs, the local dried bread with oil, tomatoes and feta cheese, greek salads, snails (manny and yia yia only), souvlaki meats, tzazkiki, crusty bread, wild cured olives, dolmades (stuffed vine leaves), and fava beans. 

Manny and I saw 8 houses for sale yesterday on our rather arduous walk up and down the village - everything from broken down farm yards complete with goats and donkey stables, to stunning bouganvillea terraced homes with three or four bedrooms.  We've can't decide between two - one a very traditional house with original hand painted green tiles and a small terrace, and another with stunning terrace views from the roof top down through the valley to Agioa Nikolaus and the ocean below. We're taking Yia Yia and Bapou for a second look in an  hour or so.  Not that we'll buy anything this trip, but it seems a real possibility that we will dream about more at home.

Off to look at homes now - miss you all!

xxxx

The Royal Wedding!

Another womderful day in Kritsa - but it's raining!  Yesterday was wonderfully warm - hats and t-shirts weather, but today it's back to winter. We woke to the raining pouring down, and did the long dash to the car through the river torent down the laneways.  Off to Yia Yia and Bapou's, then we decided to take a wet weather drive to the Lato ruins, via a narrow road up the mountains.  It was closed, but the view over the mountain was worthwhile. 

I decided we would heed my spirit of adventure and took a right hand turn towards an unknown village through the mountains.  We didn't make it as far as the village - car sickness and a general feeling of panic (apart from Yia Yia) among my passengers forced me back after a hair-raising ride along cliff faces.
We then went to an historic church built in the 1300s just out of town. Across the road was a taverna advertising souvlaki, tzaiziki and chips for 5 euros - as it was cold and raining, it sounded divine so off we went for lunch.  We were there just in time for the royal wedding, so I asked if we could watch the BBC on the TV.  We enjoyed a delightful lunch washed down with local red wine as William and Kate took their vowels.  Something to remember!

We returned to the apartments so Sophia could sleep, and then we spent the next few hours watching the wedding in the apartment restaurant TV, drinking red wine, and a little raki (given to us as a gift from the restaurant we've dined at for the last 2 nights).  I think I'm beginning to appreciate this local specialty. A lovely way to spend a rainy afternoon!

God Save the Queen!

Lamb on Sunday

The lamb on the Sunday. What a great day

Easter Videos and Pictures

Hi everyone I am going to attempt to load some more photos and videos. Mum and Dad are having a ball which is the main thing. They loved Easter and spending times with our family the Klontzas in Koutouloufari.
The Klontzas have been so warm and welcoming.

The following Videos are Midnight on Saturday. The start of the big celebrations. They know how to do Christos Anesti in Crete.

Not only do they have fireworks bells ringing, fire crackers but they have a huge fire where they burn Judas !!! I swear the whole place was about to burn down. It was scarey !!! ........but so much fun

The Great Escape

The start of Soup !!!

check out our pics and vids

Hi - we've just loaded more pics throughout the blog posts so go back and have a look at old posts if you're keen.
Love to Les who has a bad eye injury - we're thinking of you and wishing you a speedy recovery! (will some raki help??)
xx

Kritsa-bound

We left Koutouloufari just after 10am and headed for the hills of Kritsa.  We stopped on the way at the Monastry of St George. It was St George’s day and so a great celebration was taking place, especially as it was still Easter holidays.  Hundreds of people stopped to light a candle and take part in a special liturgy. We saw Yianni and Maria there – as their grandson is named George so a special day for them.  Outside along the highway, police directed traffic on the mountside, while the gypsies set up market stalls of leather goods, gyros and balloons – not quite what’s expected on a religious holiday but there you go.

We made it to Kritsa in good time and received a very warm welcome from the owner of the apartments we rented last time with Cassie.  She remembered us and Cassie and smothered her with kisses.  Sadly, her mother, a favourite of Cassie’s, passed away only three months ago.  Very sad, as I have a photo of her and her Greek baking on my pinboard at home.  We left the girls with Yia Yia and Bapou and took off in search of our spiti (house), trying to follow absurd directions given by the owner “....go up a narrow road, turn left, go past a shop and over a bridge ...” which is fine except the shop is no longer a shop and the bridge is hidden by giant rubbish bins so you have no hope of finding it.  A 20-point turn around a narrow corner was assisted by two old Greek men who called instructions and waved their hands about – no help at all but nice that they were willing! We finally abandoned the instructions and called the caretaker, and English lady who’d lived in Kritsa for 19 years.  She rescued us and showed us the way (there was no way we would have found it otherwise “... it’s the house on the second laneway with the hyndrandras on the stairs...”).  It’s actually more of a spitaki (small house) than a spiti. I fell instantly in love with the white washed walls, Greek blue decor and charming hillside location amongst the locals and about 10 cats that regularly try their hand at looking adorable in the hope we may throw some food their way. ..Manny was a little less excited and felt reality didn’t quite live up to the photos on the web site.  It IS off the main drag for sure, and we can’t park anywhere near the place because the roads really are old donkey tracks, but it has a charm and simplicity that I love and I couldn’t be happier. 

Sophia is staying in the apartment in town with Yia Yia and Bapou as there is no cot here.  We have borrowed one from the apartment in town, but it’s wooden and unless Manny carries it on his back through narrow laneways we couldn’t get it here.  While we got organised with our spiti, Sophia slept and Yia Yia and Bapou enjoyed a glorious afternoon in the sunshine overlooking the mountain valley, beneath the lime and lemon tress of their apartments, drinking locally made wine and raki from Yianni.  They say it was one of their best days ever – and will no doubt be a special memory from our holiday.  I’ve never seen them so relaxed and at ease (and frisky... J). Afterwards, we took a walk through the town, Bapou stopping every now and then to speak to the locals in his native tongue about his father, had a watered down raki in a tourist cafe and then back to the apartments for a home-cooked dinner at the Argiros Apartments (Yia Yia and Bapou’s place) of peppered chicken and potatoes casserole made with fresh ingredients from the owner’s farm, an icecream in town and then off to bed.

The following day we headed down the mountain into the major port of Aygios Nikolaus – a big bustling city with throngs of tourists even at this time of year.   We had a wander around, a snack at an expensive tourist cafe on the lake and then headed for home so Sophia could sleep. 

It’s lovely in Kritsa and the locals are welcoming, especially to those who stay overnight here. So many tourists come here on a day trip (the one promoted as ‘experience a traditional Cretan village) so if you are staying, it’s something different.  Plus Bapou impresses everyone with his Greek and stories of his family who lived here.  The family down the laneway asked today if he was going to claim his father’s property, and he said yes! I’m sure that story is already around town.  The produce here is so fresh – we’ve been kept in good supply of eggs from the family next door, while we fill out water bottles from the communal mountain spring tap nearby – which are dotted around the town. 

We’re looking forward to taking a drive into the mountains to find the tavern we visited last time with its renowned goat lasagne.  We’ll also go back for shopping in Aygios Nikolaus, a visit to the apartment owner’s farm (he wants to show us), dinner at the Papadouli taverna and a sample of the best meat in town at a cafe down our laneway next to the blacksmiths.

Manny and I are even venturing out with the spiti caretaker on Thursday who is also a real estate agent to check out the local property, which has fallen in price by 50% since the global financial crisis. Nikos tells us there will be more drops in price and next year would be the time to buy.  Nothing big – just a spitaki on the hillside would be all we’d want so we have something for our family to enjoy for years to come.

Easter Sunday

Easter Sunday April 24, 2011

A joyous feeling, sitting outside our apartment at Sunrise, watching the ocean below at the bottom of the mountain, a cat prowls for scraps, a wood-fired aroma drifts by - the remnants of Easter lamb, Greek music plays in the distance, the birds sing – it’s dusk and the rest of the Papadoulis family are asleep.  I savour the final moments of a very special day. I feel so honoured and privileged to be a part of the Papadoulis family who have given me such a depth to my relationship to this country.  When I left here in my late 20s I thought I would probably never return, or seldom.  Now a part of the Papadoulis clan I have returned with a new family of my own, and have become part of an extended family here. 

Being a part of a family Easter in Greece is so special – not just celebrating it in Greece, but actually being a part of a household, seeing how they live, understanding their customs and traditions and being honoured in such a special way has been so memorable.   Yianni asked me today if I felt a little bit Greek, and the answer is yes I do.  Frustrating at times, absurd at others, but truly lovable, the Greeks have a way of getting under your skin and grabbing hold of your heart.  I feel so fortunate to now have the experience of family in Greece – all thanks to my wonderful husband and his family.  At Nicko’s house on the hillside with ocean views to one side, and a view of a snow-capped mountain to the other, among the olive groves, there was a sense of peace and serenity.  Watching Bapou in his element with Yianni, Nicko, Arris and the other men at the table talking about the goat and how it was cooked, we all felt the importance of the day and how special it was to everyone there.  And there have been so many moments like that, especially for Bapou.  He spent a night talking with Yianni about old photos he’d brought with him – finally determining who was in them and the connections between their families.  That’s a lifetime search resolved right there.  And another, after communion on Saturday morning, when he emerged with such a smile on his face, exclaiming that it was a wonderful morning.  It’s an honour to have helped Bapou and Yia Yia experience all this – and see their warm glow of appreciation.

Before lunch we all took a walk through the olive groves to a stunning view through the mountains and over a riverbank. Cassie held hands with little Maria and Arris; while Yia Yia and Bapou walked arm in arm, stopping to look at wild rocket, aniseed and carnations (Yia Yia is truly in her element here with the wild herbs and impossibly rich colours of wildflowers, not to mention geraniums and hydrandras which flower profusely in small patches of soil on the roadside or in old oil tins set beside the front door).

The day was deliciously warm, the red wine and raki flowed, the Greek music gave a rhythm to our feasting, and Manny, Yianni and the girls danced.  Meze this time was goat cooked on the barbeque, salad, toasted local bread (dipped in the oil and vinegar mix at the bottom of the greek salad), and tiropita with mushrooms. I was full before we even began! Then it was time for the lamb on the spit, with salad and more bread.  Divine. Bapou was given the honour of the lamb’s head – tongue, brains and all, which is relished.  Then there were home baked easter sweets as well as baklava, and other delights I can’t event name – trays and trays of them, washed down with raki.  A relaxing day, spent with incredible hosts who have worked so hard to make this an Easter we will never forget.

Church last night was a truly unique experience.  Bapou, Manny and I were collected by Yianni and his daughter in law Anundia (short for Constantina).  Another special moment in Church at Easter with Bapou. We arrived around 11.30pm and then on the stroke of midnight the lights inside the church were turned off.  The fight was on for the first holy light from the priest, which then passed quickly through the congregation and spilled out into the courtyard.  Somehow we hadn’t noticed the effigy of Judas in the courtyard until it was lit on fire – the flames threatening two nearby trees until it was doused with a garden house in true Greek style.  Fire crackers, gun fire, fire works, church bells, the Christos Anesti song – a chaotic sensory overload that brought on fearful laughter among Manny, Bapou and I.  We stopped off at Yiannis’ place for takeaway soup, goat and salad for me, then returned to collect Yia Yia so they could continue the festivities well into the early hours of the morning.  Bapou was once again honoured as the head of the household – Anundia kissing his hand before the meal began.

And so to the end of the day... I can still hear children playing nearby, there is a chill in the air, but a promise of warmer weather ahead and the excitement of a new summer with all its possibilities.

For me, this is now Greece – hillsides of wild herbs, goats and shepherds, snow capped mountains, endless olive groves, the rolling ocean, church bells and local music.  I see a deeper beauty here now than I ever have before. It’s not about the good times of summer, it’s about the depth of relationships forged and Crete itself – at once simplicity and chaos combined.